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    Rads 12 Mod Write-up

    psyk
    psyk


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    Rads 12 Mod Write-up Empty Rads 12 Mod Write-up

    Post  psyk Sun Aug 07, 2011 1:51 am

    Hey guys.

    It's been quite awhile since I last posted a mod write-up, and so I decided I'd bring something fresh to the table.
    I picked up the Rads 12 simply because I was intrigued by the turret rotation and priming systems of this blaster.
    Seems that Buzz Bee put quite alot of thought into this, and came up with this clever idea.
    12-shots with a relatively compact, small-sized turret.

    However...
    Stock ranges are crap. It averages about 20-25ft, using the stock Buzz Bee darts.
    The darts that come along with it are the "rubber body" type of Buzz Bee suction darts. You know, not the soft foam ones.

    Right. Before we begin, as always, here's a list of what you need. (Rather, what I used.)
    - Dremel with Sanding bit / drum
    - Hacksaw
    - PETG (variable length; will be explained in the write-up)
    - Small O-ring, harvested from a spoilt laser pointer
    - Goop
    - Superglue
    - Screwdrivers. Philips and flat head.

    So let's start.
    The first thing to do is to remove the screws on the luger-style priming handle.
    Then, find your own way of removing the priming handle.
    I "eased" it out one side at a time.

    Sorry, no pics of this because I didn't wanna risk stretching or breaking the plastic. You'll understand when you try it.

    Then, go ahead and remove all the screws of the shell. They're all of the same size.
    Now, customary internals pic.

    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 001

    Here's some good news for all you paintjob fans...
    There's ZERO stock paint on this blaster shell.
    The different colored segments of the shell are all made out of moulded plastic, and they can easily be separated. No more masking woes! haha.

    Alright here's a look at the trigger and catch mech:

    "Rest" Position:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 002

    "Squeezed" Position:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 003

    The catch mech is pretty damn good, I highly doubt you'll need to make any changes even if you upgrade the plunger spring.

    Next up, take a look at the plunger-to-turret seal area:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 004

    The seal is honestly, pretty crappy. You can't really tell from this pic. But trust me, it's pretty crappy.
    Yes, there's very little tolerance in that entire area. It's gonna be pretty hard to improve the air output of the plunger. You'll see in the next pic.
    After seeing this, I was a little disappointed because it meant that any performance improvements made to this blaster was pretty limited due to all the restrictions.

    Here's a look at the air output area:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 005

    Now grab your flat head screw driver and ease the rubber seal out.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 006

    Here's a pic of the rubber seal, alongside the small O-ring that I harvested from a spoilt laser pointer.
    (I believe that you can harvest similar O-rings from spoilt laser painter modules too.)
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 007

    Next, apply some superglue just behind the lip of the stock rubber seal and slip the O-ring on, and you'll get this:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 008

    And now, to remove the plunger assembly:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 009

    Take note of this:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 010

    Be careful not to lose the pin that's located just behind the trigger.

    Now, depending on the thickness of your O-ring, you might have to shave down some plastic at the tip of the air output.
    It's entirely up to you.

    Then, goop the improved seal back into place.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 011

    Here's a look at the plunger head:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 012

    It's a typical Buzz Bee-styled plunger head, so I didn't need to pad the plunger head.
    Also, stock plunger head seal is pretty good! It's 90%. I ran a check with SGNerf and his, too, had a really good stock seal.
    Moreover, the stock spring is pretty damn beefy!
    So, I left it all alone. If it ain't broke then don't try to fix it, right?

    Just joking. If you wanna do the usual "e-tape under the o-ring" mod to get an even better seal, go ahead.
    If you wanna change or add springs to it, go ahead. Just because I didn't do it doesnt mean you don't have to either.

    Seems that this luger-style priming system really takes a good amount of load off the priming stroke.
    It's a really good design! Seriously, the stock spring is really rather beefy but the blaster is still easy to prime.

    Alright, turret time!

    Before we carry on, DO NOT GLUE THE CLUTCH MECHANISM / SLIP MECHANISM OF THE ROTATION MECH TOGETHER.

    Alright. First thing to do is to remove the screw on the front. (The one right smack in the middle.)
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 013

    Now remove the screws on the flip side of the turret.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 014

    All the mini-turrets will fall right out.
    Yes, the gears are glued shut onto the back of the mini-turrets.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 015

    This picture is self-explanatory:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 016

    Notice how the middle segment of each mini turret is actually hollow.
    They were shouting "REBARREL ME PLEASE!"

    Well anyway, I went ahead and did this.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 017

    After that I grabbed my dremel and SLOWLY (key word) dremelled each slot till PETG could fit.
    However, I only needed the PETG to sit about 1cm into each slot. This is because the ID of PETG and the stock barrels are the same.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 020

    And yes, I also widened the back air flow a little.
    Can you spot the difference?
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 019

    Here's my finished barrels, with everything gooped into place.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 021

    I planned for my barrels to be a total length of 6cm.
    I know that 6cm is not the optimal barrel length but I was going for was the ability to accept more dart types, tagger darts included, and also, shorter barrels also means that it's alot easier to holster / carry around.

    Now it's time to put the turret back into place.
    You need to make sure that the green nub is aligned to either one of the black nubs.
    From here, you'll always be taking your alignments with regards to the position of these two nubs.
    It's a little tricky to put down in words and maybe even in pictures, but when you're working with it physically, you'll understand much better.

    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 022

    Once you line those two up, they'll have to lie along the HORIZONTAL axis.
    Taking cue from that, you can begin replacing the barrels onto the main turret assembly.

    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 023

    Remember that since the black and green nubs are lying on the HORIZONTAL axis, the air output lies on the VERTICAL axis.
    In other words, along the vertical axis, you should see "single" air flow holes, while you should see "double" air flow holes along the horizontal axis. Depending on the main gear position of your turret, your "final position" may not be the same as mine. You'll be fine as long as you remember that the green and black nubs lie on the horizontal axis, while a "single" air flow hole should be on the vertical axis.

    This next picture depicts an example of the WRONG alignment:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 024

    Horizontal alignment of the green and black nubs, and a horizontal alignment of the "single" air flow holes.
    You don't want this. Yeah?

    Now put the two halves of the shell together.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 025

    Get your dremel.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 026

    This is to accomodate the new plunger to turret seal.

    Now you'll want to fit the internals back into place.
    It's a little tricky so after some practise, I've decided that this is the best and easiest method to put all the internals back into place.

    We'll start with the big chunk of the plunger head, spring, and priming bar piece.
    Before you put this part in place, aim to get the spring to the correct resting position first.
    Once you do that, put the pin back into the slot (it goes just behind the trigger.)
    I know it's weird, but the pin will hold the entire assembly down.

    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 027

    Next, just slip the plunger tube back over the plunger assembly.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 028

    Finally, put the black priming bar piece into place first before replacing the screw. Don't forget that the screw was not screwed all the way down.
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 029

    Next, align the black and green nubs of the turret assembly like so:
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 030

    I chose to have them facing down.
    By facing "down", I mean "down - away from me". In other words, "towards the left side of the blaster".
    You can have it facing "up" also, it's up to you.

    The rest is a piece of cake.
    Of course, you have to find your own way to re-install the priming handle.

    and we're done!
    Rads 12 Mod Write-up 031

    Using slugs, I'm hitting at least 40 ft with each shot now, so I'm happy with this.
    Honestly, you could probably get a whole lot more than I do out of this blaster.

    Now, here's why I modded the Rads 12 this way.
    There's NO room for rear loading slots. Sure, you can find space to cut out in the shell, but you simply won't be able to mess around with the gear system. That's why I chose to have shorter barrels.
    I wouldn't need to ramrod stefans down the barrels. It can hold tagger and suction tip darts nicely.
    It's alot easier to holster and carry around.

    I didn't bother upgrading the spring because I see this blaster as a secondary, and also, because of the small size of the plunger tube. This also means that it takes less effort for me to prime (seriously, you'll be using just two fingers to prime this blaster), which also translates to a higher RoF.

    All in all, this was a fun blaster to work with.
    Very interesting internal design. I'm sure someone can turn this into a 60ft shooter, but I'm rather contented with mine being this way.

    Demo Vid:


    Hope this post helps you guys in one way or another.


    Last edited by psyk on Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:54 pm; edited 1 time in total
    plulse
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    Post  plulse Sun Aug 07, 2011 2:33 am

    cool looks like a good
    bulletproofvest
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    Post  bulletproofvest Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:27 am

    This is another beautiful write up! Very nice, Psyk.
    KingCam
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    Post  KingCam Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:32 am

    Nice write-up Psky, But I don't think we can get these in Australia yet?
    littlebro05
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    Post  littlebro05 Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:35 am

    Added to the modification directory =).
    redcricket077
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    Post  redcricket077 Sun Aug 07, 2011 3:48 am

    The modded turrets look mean
    Akimbo Assassin
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    Post  Akimbo Assassin Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:28 am

    Great effort again Psyk and very entertaining writeup. Shame it's just too much work for my liking (I'm lazy)
    RL
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    Post  RL Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:41 am

    KingCam wrote:Nice write-up Psky, But I don't think we can get these in Australia yet?

    I doubt we won't be for long.
    chiiia
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    Post  chiiia Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:03 am

    Very nice Psyk! I like it
    NachoTaco
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    Post  NachoTaco Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:29 am

    Nice job!
    bulletproofvest
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    Post  bulletproofvest Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:32 am

    Still in the shop
    clunk07
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    Post  clunk07 Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:36 am

    Hey psyk,

    Good to see another project from yourself mate.

    Awesome write-up as normal!!

    Cheers,
    melbnerf619
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    Post  melbnerf619 Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:27 am

    Great writeup as usuall I think i'm actually going to get a non-air buzz bee gun.
    "Stick it in gently" Thats what she said

    -James
    Johnnus
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    Post  Johnnus Sun Aug 07, 2011 11:02 am

    *generic praising comment here*
    I have a question on the air seal. When you glued the o-ring onto the plunger-turret seal part, it doesn't actually appear to affect air seal, as the o-ring sits behind the tip of the air seal thingy (whatever it is). Does it actually affect air seal?
    Echoes
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    Post  Echoes Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:25 pm

    Lol cookie cutters. We all love cookie cutters.

    I was very fascinated by the Rads12 when I saw it on Jerm's blog. The way the turrets turn is... hypnotic to say the least.

    It's a shame you didn't try doing a spring replacement/addition or anything, I'd have been interested in the overhauled ranges of this thing. It looks promising, yet slightly impractical for holstering. Thanks for the great write up!
    psyk
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    Post  psyk Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:48 am

    2120 wrote:
    KingCam wrote:Nice write-up Psky, But I don't think we can get these in Australia yet?

    I doubt we won't be for long.
    I think you guys will get it soon. It's out in the USA already anyways.
    But if you want, you I can ship them over to you. Just a warning though, shipping from here to you is a little steep.

    littlebro05 wrote:Added to the modification directory =).
    Thank you sir!

    Akimbo Assassin wrote:Great effort again Psyk and very entertaining writeup. Shame it's just too much work for my liking (I'm lazy)
    So am I. Hahahaa. I didn't know what I was getting myself into when I began sawing the turrets. LOL

    bulletproofvest wrote:Still in the shop
    Nah, not anymore. Always at home for now. "For Now".

    Johnnus wrote:*generic praising comment here*
    I have a question on the air seal. When you glued the o-ring onto the plunger-turret seal part, it doesn't actually appear to affect air seal, as the o-ring sits behind the tip of the air seal thingy (whatever it is). Does it actually affect air seal?
    Yes it does. Originally, the white rubber seal piece sits flush on the lip of the air release output.
    After I sleeved the black O-ring behind the white rubber seal piece, now it's the black O-ring that sits on the lip of the air release output. Thus, in a sense, I've "extended" the air release hole by the thickness of the O-ring.

    I hope you understand what I just typed. LOL!

    Echoes wrote:Lol cookie cutters. We all love cookie cutters.

    I was very fascinated by the Rads12 when I saw it on Jerm's blog. The way the turrets turn is... hypnotic to say the least.

    It's a shame you didn't try doing a spring replacement/addition or anything, I'd have been interested in the overhauled ranges of this thing. It looks promising, yet slightly impractical for holstering. Thanks for the great write up!

    Yeah. It's slightly impractical for holstering... thus an even bigger reason for me not to have 6-inch long barrels. Sorry about the spring replacement... According to SGNerf, the stock spring has a load of about 9kgs... and that's stronger than the average Singaporean user's 6-kg nitefinder springs...

    I didn't wanna go into "overkill" so I just thought I'd leave it this way.
    Johnnus
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    Post  Johnnus Mon Aug 08, 2011 1:23 pm

    psyk wrote:
    ...
    Johnnus wrote:*generic praising comment here*
    I have a question on the air seal. When you glued the o-ring onto the plunger-turret seal part, it doesn't actually appear to affect air seal, as the o-ring sits behind the tip of the air seal thingy (whatever it is). Does it actually affect air seal?
    Yes it does. Originally, the white rubber seal piece sits flush on the lip of the air release output.
    After I sleeved the black O-ring behind the white rubber seal piece, now it's the black O-ring that sits on the lip of the air release output. Thus, in a sense, I've "extended" the air release hole by the thickness of the O-ring.

    I hope you understand what I just typed. LOL!

    ... According to SGNerf, the stock spring has a load of about 9kgs...

    Yeah, that makes sense now. Thanks.
    9kg spring... ...use the spring and turret for something else? Like maybe a fancy dodecashot or something.
    littlebro05
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    Post  littlebro05 Mon Aug 08, 2011 2:23 pm

    9kg spring holy shit... alternative for a vulcan spring right there.
    psyk
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    Post  psyk Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:24 pm

    Johnnus wrote:
    Yeah, that makes sense now. Thanks.
    9kg spring... ...use the spring and turret for something else? Like maybe a fancy dodecashot or something.

    littlebro05 wrote:9kg spring holy shit... alternative for a vulcan spring right there.

    Well, that is what SGNerf told me. I, for one, do not doubt his tech data!
    However, just know that I didn't check the load for myself.

    Anyways, I'm done with the demo video.


    I'm also updating the first post with the video
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    Post  boosted6 Thu Aug 11, 2011 1:27 pm

    Very nice mate, great photos and well written up.
    Psykka
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    Post  Psykka Thu Aug 11, 2011 6:20 pm

    As always the writeup is easy to follow.
    I'd never seen this blaster before this. It's very cool and now that I think about it I'm really surprised noone has done a turret like this before.

    I bet you could make a varient of this to fit onto a tripple shot without a huge ammount of hassel.

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