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Hey guys.
Ok ive had a few PM's about my air compressor mod for my as-20 so I'll post up a how to as best I can with the shots I took during.
First things first. Parts and Tools.
For this mod you will need fairly basic tools: dremel, needle noise pliers, side cutters or tin snips, pk screw driver to suit (I used a large jewlers)
drill with a 10mm bit or stepped bit and a marker.
Parts: I used the compresor from a Slime tyre inflator purchased from repco, the part number for the unit is COMP 03. There is a bolt hole in the body of the compresor that fits dead on with the lower screw sleve on the gun body so If you get another brand the mount is in your court.
U will also need an irigation fitting from bunnings to connect the stock pipe to the compresor pipe. I used this fitting due to its high pressure rating I also cable tied both ends just to be sure.
Lastly and most expensive is the LiPo cell. These are HIGH current R/C batteries that can handle the 15 amp current draw from the motor. You could try NiCads or NiMhd but they are alot bigger. The Lipo i used was a 4 cell 2300mah good for about 63amps. A special charger is needed for LiPo cells to, battery and charger will set you back about $100 to $150. Compresor $30 and the fitting, well, I may have walked out with that by mistake while purchasing some dremel disks....oops.
OK time to build.
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN USING A DREMEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When taking apart your gun there is 3 sizes of screws. long, short and a larger gauge short for the bottle retainer, there are only 4 of those. Arrange your screws on some card in the shape of where you took them out, that way the go back into the right place. Remove the styling cover first to expose the guns main body. The front and rear or this gun are in two parts. The front is easy to open, the rear is glued at the base and has a retaining ring around the plunger tube, remove this first or you will snap it. Second, remove the reatiner for the presure bottle then undo the rest of the cover. Once apart it should look like this:
From here you can see how the piping works, the op valve and how the rest of the gun comes apart, you can take the pipe system out if you wish.
This is where you will do your cutting, note, you DO NOT want to cut the circled stem off, this will become your compressor mount.
Here is what you want to remove. You will have to check it afew times against the pump body for clearance, take off alittle at a time, cutting of to much will mean less plastic to clamp down on the pump.
Here is the finished side of the gun. Note the slot for the pump drive gear and I have taken more of the bottom of the gun to get a betterfit against the pump body.
Due to to pump sitting off center, both parts of the gun are different so getting this main side sorted first is the the harder part, the top is easier.
Here is the top half and style cover on, you can see that the top cut is fairly easy.
One thing to point out is that you will need to remove some material from the style plate if you plan to use it. When you first get the pump it has a cooling wheel on that top shaft you see there, this pulls off with the help of some side cutters. I left the steel shaft there in fear of warping the main drive in the engine.
Take your drill and drill a hole as marked. you will need to open it out if you have a 10mm bit, a stepped bit is better here. This is where your pipe will run through and up the pump tube. I dont have a pic of the tube but all i did was remove it from the gun by cutting off the line as close to the tube as you can then removing the plunger which just falls out then drilling out the plastic end. I also trimmed the length of the tube by about 25 to 30mm and made a cut out for the compresor pipe to lay in. (sorry no pic :()
At this point you can test fit the pump. One thing I also did is shave down the reciever on the screw that holds the pump on. U will see a small lip on the top part of the gun, just shave that back to the thickness of the pump body and there should be no gaps in the case.
next, mount your on/off switch to the inside of the gun handle. Really, the switches can go where ever i are happy. For the main cut off switch I used the one that came on the tyre compresor pump case, it had writing on it so it was cool! That went on the style case of the gun.
I drilled a hole here to wire out the gun to the main kill switch and fuse, your version of this will driffer depending on where you want your main switch.
This is what your wire up should look like. I used a mini 15amp automotive fuse, same sort that's in vt and up Commodores. DO NOT forget this fuse. LiPo batteries are VERY dangerous, if you short this cell BANG! ATM im just cable tying the battery to the underside of the gun.
Once this is all done you can start fitting the main part of the gun back together. After that join the guns stock pipe to the compresor pipe via the irigation fitting, cable ties on either side will ensure a tight fit. reassemble the rear of the gun and attatch plugs to suit your battery. It should now look like so:
I fashioned a quick mount for the gauge using some strapping i had laying about and a short tech screw.
After that I tested the gun, it worked well. U will find the gun runs on 40-42psi you could remove the OP valve but you run the risk of blowing the guns bladder.
Off to the paint shop for the final touches.
Thats about it guys, hope you find this build helpful, please comment and ask questions im happy to help
Here is my finished paint up of my long shot, mods still yet to come on that...
CAL
Ok ive had a few PM's about my air compressor mod for my as-20 so I'll post up a how to as best I can with the shots I took during.
First things first. Parts and Tools.
For this mod you will need fairly basic tools: dremel, needle noise pliers, side cutters or tin snips, pk screw driver to suit (I used a large jewlers)
drill with a 10mm bit or stepped bit and a marker.
Parts: I used the compresor from a Slime tyre inflator purchased from repco, the part number for the unit is COMP 03. There is a bolt hole in the body of the compresor that fits dead on with the lower screw sleve on the gun body so If you get another brand the mount is in your court.
U will also need an irigation fitting from bunnings to connect the stock pipe to the compresor pipe. I used this fitting due to its high pressure rating I also cable tied both ends just to be sure.
Lastly and most expensive is the LiPo cell. These are HIGH current R/C batteries that can handle the 15 amp current draw from the motor. You could try NiCads or NiMhd but they are alot bigger. The Lipo i used was a 4 cell 2300mah good for about 63amps. A special charger is needed for LiPo cells to, battery and charger will set you back about $100 to $150. Compresor $30 and the fitting, well, I may have walked out with that by mistake while purchasing some dremel disks....oops.
OK time to build.
ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN USING A DREMEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When taking apart your gun there is 3 sizes of screws. long, short and a larger gauge short for the bottle retainer, there are only 4 of those. Arrange your screws on some card in the shape of where you took them out, that way the go back into the right place. Remove the styling cover first to expose the guns main body. The front and rear or this gun are in two parts. The front is easy to open, the rear is glued at the base and has a retaining ring around the plunger tube, remove this first or you will snap it. Second, remove the reatiner for the presure bottle then undo the rest of the cover. Once apart it should look like this:
From here you can see how the piping works, the op valve and how the rest of the gun comes apart, you can take the pipe system out if you wish.
This is where you will do your cutting, note, you DO NOT want to cut the circled stem off, this will become your compressor mount.
Here is what you want to remove. You will have to check it afew times against the pump body for clearance, take off alittle at a time, cutting of to much will mean less plastic to clamp down on the pump.
Here is the finished side of the gun. Note the slot for the pump drive gear and I have taken more of the bottom of the gun to get a betterfit against the pump body.
Due to to pump sitting off center, both parts of the gun are different so getting this main side sorted first is the the harder part, the top is easier.
Here is the top half and style cover on, you can see that the top cut is fairly easy.
One thing to point out is that you will need to remove some material from the style plate if you plan to use it. When you first get the pump it has a cooling wheel on that top shaft you see there, this pulls off with the help of some side cutters. I left the steel shaft there in fear of warping the main drive in the engine.
Take your drill and drill a hole as marked. you will need to open it out if you have a 10mm bit, a stepped bit is better here. This is where your pipe will run through and up the pump tube. I dont have a pic of the tube but all i did was remove it from the gun by cutting off the line as close to the tube as you can then removing the plunger which just falls out then drilling out the plastic end. I also trimmed the length of the tube by about 25 to 30mm and made a cut out for the compresor pipe to lay in. (sorry no pic :()
At this point you can test fit the pump. One thing I also did is shave down the reciever on the screw that holds the pump on. U will see a small lip on the top part of the gun, just shave that back to the thickness of the pump body and there should be no gaps in the case.
next, mount your on/off switch to the inside of the gun handle. Really, the switches can go where ever i are happy. For the main cut off switch I used the one that came on the tyre compresor pump case, it had writing on it so it was cool! That went on the style case of the gun.
I drilled a hole here to wire out the gun to the main kill switch and fuse, your version of this will driffer depending on where you want your main switch.
This is what your wire up should look like. I used a mini 15amp automotive fuse, same sort that's in vt and up Commodores. DO NOT forget this fuse. LiPo batteries are VERY dangerous, if you short this cell BANG! ATM im just cable tying the battery to the underside of the gun.
Once this is all done you can start fitting the main part of the gun back together. After that join the guns stock pipe to the compresor pipe via the irigation fitting, cable ties on either side will ensure a tight fit. reassemble the rear of the gun and attatch plugs to suit your battery. It should now look like so:
I fashioned a quick mount for the gauge using some strapping i had laying about and a short tech screw.
After that I tested the gun, it worked well. U will find the gun runs on 40-42psi you could remove the OP valve but you run the risk of blowing the guns bladder.
Off to the paint shop for the final touches.
Thats about it guys, hope you find this build helpful, please comment and ask questions im happy to help
Here is my finished paint up of my long shot, mods still yet to come on that...
CAL
