Hi all, thought i'd do a write-up on the last blaster i've modded, which is named-MNESIA.
After MakeItGO sent me one of his 'Man Springs' i felt very much inclined to rush to a TRU and hand over another mammoth $19 to purchase another Air Zone Triple Shot, so i did. But instead of making another turret, i thought i'd re-create Pearsons Manual Chaingun mod he did on his PAS. Only difference is, my barrels are brass, and are towards the bottom of the blaster, instead of the top.
To say this blaster is reliable would be an understatment. Like the Octo-Shot, it has recieved full expoxy putty everywhere except for the front where the turret would normally be. No stress at the front, so no need to waste it there. After the first few shots, i pulled it apart again, as instructed by MIG himself, and sure enough i noticed faint signs of damage, but nothing serious. Again it was reinforced, fired over 50 rounds, pulled her apart and nothing but perfection, no wear, no stress, for all areas were addressed and seen to properly.
For a spring this size, you need to really expoxy this bolt well. Scratch up the bottom for extra grip.
Pulling on the trigger is not for the weak. I've handed this blaster over to a father who couldnt even prime it, took it to work, and one of the boys couldnt pull the trigger. Yes the trigger is now very strong, but for me, its perfect. Priming and shooting this is great.
If you look closely at the next pic, along the rail where the plunger tube follows, you will see the previous damage caused. Once that was adresses on second pull down, i've had ZERO drama's.
Next pic is my streamlined coupler, nice smooth air flow to the dart without hitting any kind of walls, little things like this make a nice difference.
Heres the power. Special shout-out to MakeItGo for this spring.
Heres the bath plug head resposible for the perfect air seal. A few of these are, or will be in some canadian nerfers blasters i'm pretty sure...
Make sure both ends are gooped. Where the screw enters, and also where it ends. Air will find any little air pockets and rob you of power.
So with the blaster all done and ready, it needed barrels, so i had to order 5x9/16 brass barrels. All five are 290mm long.
Pictured also is the main part of the loader, the length of dowel and its holder basically.
I was originally looking for a piece of conduit that the dowel could fit into, but after looking around in the garage, i found my old plastic cricket stumps which only saw i game of street cricket years ago, and the dowel fitted almost perfectly. It also had these plastic end caps, so it was nice and clean.
With the dowel, its easier to cut it in half, then drill through both halves. I actually had a drill bit long enough to make it through, but its easier doing it in halves, and less room for error, just try and get hole in the center.
Once drilled, apply some max bond, no more nails, etc.
Goop both ends, put both pieces of dowel together, then pull back apart and let sit for around 30-60secs.
This will make bond even stronger.
Once you have placed them together, put your e-tape, etc around the dowel, and slide her through into its new home.
Of course dont forget your length of 5mm threaded rod. Mine is 380mm long.
Next, you have to make sure the threaded rod is secure on the blaster end. I permantley put nuts behind, so taking it on and off is just 2 screws and its done.
So once thats done, its time to add the barrels. PETG is fine for this, i only used brass because i sometimes shoot other things than just foam. I could have made an evil looking loader, but i had to remember to keep the weight down. So for the barrel bases, i noticed i had a few too many clothes line pegs out on the washing line, so i grabbed a few and noticed they had a nice curve for the barrels to sit into.
This is the first loader i made, then i wasnt happy with it, so i did it over again.
Of course you dont just throw your barrels anywhere, check with the first one like this.
With a setup like this, i decided to add a little bit of evil. What you see at the front is MNESIA. It was actually much bigger and a very nice skull. But i wanted to bring it closer, so out came the 5" grinder.
Of course the threaded rod pokes out between his eyes.
Now all it needs is paint. I thought i'd airbrush it, never airbrushed before, but its just like using a pen, their fantastic. I suggest you draw a pattern in your head or on paper. I did that at the start, and one paint job i did was quite good i thought for my first attempt, but after that i lost the plot and started to get more complex, but my skills werent up to it, trying to create flames is fine, but with smoke, etc, it was just too hard. And because of that, i ruined a perfectly good paintjob, and then i went horribly backwards, was like i had writers block or something...heres my first airbrush attempt.
Flames will always look better on a black background, and believe it or not, your flames will always be white at the beginning. Transparent paints have me kinda hooked..but i wanted a hotter look, like i was stepping through satans door and the heat beginning to melt the blaster.
So little steps..
Because i wanted the flames on a orange, red background, they just werent going to pop out like the other paint job i did, but in the end it came out ok, but i'll be doing the flames much better and more intense next time. It has to be on fire basically.
I used this paint called Auto Air, there all transparent paints and are amazing to work with.
Sometimes i go carried away and did so many layers to only paint all over it again. But i must say, painting a blaster is hard if your doing flames. Finished her off in a pearl clear, and it was done.
Range test done today. My first shot was 155.2ft flat.
I had one freak dart travel 177.2 flat. It was a freak shot because i couldnt do it again, and how i tried. I have it on film, and will edit it to this post tomorrow.
Thanks for reading everyone.
boosted6.
[img][/img]
After MakeItGO sent me one of his 'Man Springs' i felt very much inclined to rush to a TRU and hand over another mammoth $19 to purchase another Air Zone Triple Shot, so i did. But instead of making another turret, i thought i'd re-create Pearsons Manual Chaingun mod he did on his PAS. Only difference is, my barrels are brass, and are towards the bottom of the blaster, instead of the top.
To say this blaster is reliable would be an understatment. Like the Octo-Shot, it has recieved full expoxy putty everywhere except for the front where the turret would normally be. No stress at the front, so no need to waste it there. After the first few shots, i pulled it apart again, as instructed by MIG himself, and sure enough i noticed faint signs of damage, but nothing serious. Again it was reinforced, fired over 50 rounds, pulled her apart and nothing but perfection, no wear, no stress, for all areas were addressed and seen to properly.
For a spring this size, you need to really expoxy this bolt well. Scratch up the bottom for extra grip.
Pulling on the trigger is not for the weak. I've handed this blaster over to a father who couldnt even prime it, took it to work, and one of the boys couldnt pull the trigger. Yes the trigger is now very strong, but for me, its perfect. Priming and shooting this is great.
If you look closely at the next pic, along the rail where the plunger tube follows, you will see the previous damage caused. Once that was adresses on second pull down, i've had ZERO drama's.
Next pic is my streamlined coupler, nice smooth air flow to the dart without hitting any kind of walls, little things like this make a nice difference.
Heres the power. Special shout-out to MakeItGo for this spring.
Heres the bath plug head resposible for the perfect air seal. A few of these are, or will be in some canadian nerfers blasters i'm pretty sure...
Make sure both ends are gooped. Where the screw enters, and also where it ends. Air will find any little air pockets and rob you of power.
So with the blaster all done and ready, it needed barrels, so i had to order 5x9/16 brass barrels. All five are 290mm long.
Pictured also is the main part of the loader, the length of dowel and its holder basically.
I was originally looking for a piece of conduit that the dowel could fit into, but after looking around in the garage, i found my old plastic cricket stumps which only saw i game of street cricket years ago, and the dowel fitted almost perfectly. It also had these plastic end caps, so it was nice and clean.
With the dowel, its easier to cut it in half, then drill through both halves. I actually had a drill bit long enough to make it through, but its easier doing it in halves, and less room for error, just try and get hole in the center.
Once drilled, apply some max bond, no more nails, etc.
Goop both ends, put both pieces of dowel together, then pull back apart and let sit for around 30-60secs.
This will make bond even stronger.
Once you have placed them together, put your e-tape, etc around the dowel, and slide her through into its new home.
Of course dont forget your length of 5mm threaded rod. Mine is 380mm long.
Next, you have to make sure the threaded rod is secure on the blaster end. I permantley put nuts behind, so taking it on and off is just 2 screws and its done.
So once thats done, its time to add the barrels. PETG is fine for this, i only used brass because i sometimes shoot other things than just foam. I could have made an evil looking loader, but i had to remember to keep the weight down. So for the barrel bases, i noticed i had a few too many clothes line pegs out on the washing line, so i grabbed a few and noticed they had a nice curve for the barrels to sit into.
This is the first loader i made, then i wasnt happy with it, so i did it over again.
Of course you dont just throw your barrels anywhere, check with the first one like this.
With a setup like this, i decided to add a little bit of evil. What you see at the front is MNESIA. It was actually much bigger and a very nice skull. But i wanted to bring it closer, so out came the 5" grinder.
Of course the threaded rod pokes out between his eyes.
Now all it needs is paint. I thought i'd airbrush it, never airbrushed before, but its just like using a pen, their fantastic. I suggest you draw a pattern in your head or on paper. I did that at the start, and one paint job i did was quite good i thought for my first attempt, but after that i lost the plot and started to get more complex, but my skills werent up to it, trying to create flames is fine, but with smoke, etc, it was just too hard. And because of that, i ruined a perfectly good paintjob, and then i went horribly backwards, was like i had writers block or something...heres my first airbrush attempt.
Flames will always look better on a black background, and believe it or not, your flames will always be white at the beginning. Transparent paints have me kinda hooked..but i wanted a hotter look, like i was stepping through satans door and the heat beginning to melt the blaster.
So little steps..
Because i wanted the flames on a orange, red background, they just werent going to pop out like the other paint job i did, but in the end it came out ok, but i'll be doing the flames much better and more intense next time. It has to be on fire basically.
I used this paint called Auto Air, there all transparent paints and are amazing to work with.
Sometimes i go carried away and did so many layers to only paint all over it again. But i must say, painting a blaster is hard if your doing flames. Finished her off in a pearl clear, and it was done.
Range test done today. My first shot was 155.2ft flat.
I had one freak dart travel 177.2 flat. It was a freak shot because i couldnt do it again, and how i tried. I have it on film, and will edit it to this post tomorrow.
Thanks for reading everyone.
boosted6.
[img][/img]