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All righty, 1st write-up FTW! My dad decided to do some of this today when I was at school :/ so some of the pics will be post production.
The macro on my camera is… absolute crap house, so sorry in advance
You start with your BBUMB
Thanks for Roger Explosion for borrowing your picture. I promise I’ll return it after I’m finished with it.
Open up the gun all of the screws are obvious and the screw wells are deep so you don’t need to worry about losing screws . You don’t need to unscrew the pump handle.
Here is what your gun should look like + the flash hider thing, pretty basic right?
Take out the whole assembly (all of the white tubes and the barrel)
If you pull the pumping handle you will see the plunger head and the O-ring. I tried to put another O-ring on there but if you look closely at your head (of the plunger you sick minded people :P) where the O-ring sits, do you see the little notches? Well those act as kind of like a 1-way valve, if you try to double ring it, when you pull the plunger back it just creates a vacuum and the head will go back into the tube as soon as you let the handle go.
Anyway, the hole on top of the head is where the OPV is located, so just get your hot glue, I used ‘fletch-tite’ which is glue for archery stuff, but it’s super-cala-fricken-awsome. Just ‘plug’ that hole and you can pump more than 6 times (6 is about when the OPV kicks in, I would recommend no more than 12).
While you have the gun apart pull apart where the plunger casing is that joins to a smaller tube going to ‘the bulb’. You will see a tiny O-ring, I wrapped just some masking tape between the O-ring and there the flat bit of the plunger tube casing. I’m not sure if this did anything but it can’t hurt right?
Now put your gun back together, you won’t need to pull it apart again. When you put the gun back together, the wire that connects the trigger to the pin, make sure that the wire is underneath the trigger, otherwise it will rub and be a bitch to use. It’s also a good idea to lube the metal pipe aswell:
Now do you see the orange tip in the barrel post thing? Just cut that off. Now grab a 9/16 drill bit, and slowly drill through the hole that is presented to you from cutting off the orange bit. (that’s if you’re using 9/16 brass like me, if your barrel is looser, just pack the end going into the post with tape to make it tight.) Now get your 9/16 brass and slowly push and twist it down into the barrel, I only managed to get mine inside about half way. You could also put tape over the air holes on the black post, but if you putting a barrel down there then you probably don’t need to do that.
^tape^
^Orange nub^
N.B. If you don’t want to add a barrel you can just tape up those holes and instead of cutting off the orange nub, grind it down so it’s flat, then slowly work up to a 1/2 inch drill bit and then the orange cap is drilled out, but it’s a slightly smaller diameter than the ‘black barrel’ so stock darts and blue foam will fit almost perfectly around the orange bit. Think of it as a crappy barrel, ranges with just that are about 65ft, 70ft if you’re lucky with streamlines and 10 pumps (all ranges are ‘plugged’)
Now at this point some people will be screaming at their screens “OMFG WTF man you have no reinforcement on the barrel, you’re gonna get GG’ed man!!”. But just relax, I got this guys.
Once you get your 9/16 in there nice and tight, I got a piece of copper I had lying around (OD of 3/4 inch, about 100mm long) and place that over the ‘black barrel’ and the brass (I’ll do a diagram later). After that, grab a pool noodle (apparently the new ones don’t have holes through them so you need one with a hole through it) and cut it about 16cm long and taper one end like in the below picture.
Now slide/force that into the orange ‘flash arrestor’, It will be super tight. This helps strengthen the barrel at the 2 most crucial parts, where the black barrel comes out of the BBUMB shell and at the end of the ‘black barrel’ where the brass comes out. Refer to this diagram for a better idea:
The pool noodle acts as a shock absorber for the impact of a drop on the ground, and makes everything fit super tight. A.K.A no glue required :D.
If you still want to use the rockets that came with your new rape cannon, wrap some 1inch tape around the end of the brass until the missile sits tightish.
Because Thanh reckoned that the public might become scared of the whole “WTF it has brass? Does it shoot ball bearings or something?” aspect, I got the barrel from my LSFG and lopped a bit off the end and shoved it over the brass, covering all of it except a 7cm length of brass that is showing, the perfect length for the missiles, that my dad insisted on making it being able to shoot :/
The finnished product:
Streamline ranges (most of the darts were old and streamline range tests are no real indercation of performance due to the hole in the head):
70ft
77.5ft
98.5ft
70ft
115ft
average:86.2ft (parallel to the ground)
Snap cap ranges:
Missile ranges:
There’s been a monsoon here and there’s puddles of water everywhere so I’ll do a range test tomorrow and update this.
The macro on my camera is… absolute crap house, so sorry in advance
You start with your BBUMB
Thanks for Roger Explosion for borrowing your picture. I promise I’ll return it after I’m finished with it.
Open up the gun all of the screws are obvious and the screw wells are deep so you don’t need to worry about losing screws . You don’t need to unscrew the pump handle.
Here is what your gun should look like + the flash hider thing, pretty basic right?
Take out the whole assembly (all of the white tubes and the barrel)
If you pull the pumping handle you will see the plunger head and the O-ring. I tried to put another O-ring on there but if you look closely at your head (of the plunger you sick minded people :P) where the O-ring sits, do you see the little notches? Well those act as kind of like a 1-way valve, if you try to double ring it, when you pull the plunger back it just creates a vacuum and the head will go back into the tube as soon as you let the handle go.
Anyway, the hole on top of the head is where the OPV is located, so just get your hot glue, I used ‘fletch-tite’ which is glue for archery stuff, but it’s super-cala-fricken-awsome. Just ‘plug’ that hole and you can pump more than 6 times (6 is about when the OPV kicks in, I would recommend no more than 12).
While you have the gun apart pull apart where the plunger casing is that joins to a smaller tube going to ‘the bulb’. You will see a tiny O-ring, I wrapped just some masking tape between the O-ring and there the flat bit of the plunger tube casing. I’m not sure if this did anything but it can’t hurt right?
Now put your gun back together, you won’t need to pull it apart again. When you put the gun back together, the wire that connects the trigger to the pin, make sure that the wire is underneath the trigger, otherwise it will rub and be a bitch to use. It’s also a good idea to lube the metal pipe aswell:
Now do you see the orange tip in the barrel post thing? Just cut that off. Now grab a 9/16 drill bit, and slowly drill through the hole that is presented to you from cutting off the orange bit. (that’s if you’re using 9/16 brass like me, if your barrel is looser, just pack the end going into the post with tape to make it tight.) Now get your 9/16 brass and slowly push and twist it down into the barrel, I only managed to get mine inside about half way. You could also put tape over the air holes on the black post, but if you putting a barrel down there then you probably don’t need to do that.
^tape^
^Orange nub^
N.B. If you don’t want to add a barrel you can just tape up those holes and instead of cutting off the orange nub, grind it down so it’s flat, then slowly work up to a 1/2 inch drill bit and then the orange cap is drilled out, but it’s a slightly smaller diameter than the ‘black barrel’ so stock darts and blue foam will fit almost perfectly around the orange bit. Think of it as a crappy barrel, ranges with just that are about 65ft, 70ft if you’re lucky with streamlines and 10 pumps (all ranges are ‘plugged’)
Now at this point some people will be screaming at their screens “OMFG WTF man you have no reinforcement on the barrel, you’re gonna get GG’ed man!!”. But just relax, I got this guys.
Once you get your 9/16 in there nice and tight, I got a piece of copper I had lying around (OD of 3/4 inch, about 100mm long) and place that over the ‘black barrel’ and the brass (I’ll do a diagram later). After that, grab a pool noodle (apparently the new ones don’t have holes through them so you need one with a hole through it) and cut it about 16cm long and taper one end like in the below picture.
Now slide/force that into the orange ‘flash arrestor’, It will be super tight. This helps strengthen the barrel at the 2 most crucial parts, where the black barrel comes out of the BBUMB shell and at the end of the ‘black barrel’ where the brass comes out. Refer to this diagram for a better idea:
The pool noodle acts as a shock absorber for the impact of a drop on the ground, and makes everything fit super tight. A.K.A no glue required :D.
If you still want to use the rockets that came with your new rape cannon, wrap some 1inch tape around the end of the brass until the missile sits tightish.
Because Thanh reckoned that the public might become scared of the whole “WTF it has brass? Does it shoot ball bearings or something?” aspect, I got the barrel from my LSFG and lopped a bit off the end and shoved it over the brass, covering all of it except a 7cm length of brass that is showing, the perfect length for the missiles, that my dad insisted on making it being able to shoot :/
The finnished product:
Streamline ranges (most of the darts were old and streamline range tests are no real indercation of performance due to the hole in the head):
70ft
77.5ft
98.5ft
70ft
115ft
average:86.2ft (parallel to the ground)
Snap cap ranges:
Missile ranges:
There’s been a monsoon here and there’s puddles of water everywhere so I’ll do a range test tomorrow and update this.
Last edited by Switchblade on Fri Oct 29, 2010 2:11 am; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : Edited streamline ranges)
