Oz Nerf modification competition - Round 2 - Entry submission thread

Please post your competition submissions in this thread only. Refer to THIS THREAD for any discussion relating to the competition.

Rules

This competition is specific to spring powered foam blasters only. You may include a springer with a secondary air powered addition, but only if the main firing mechanism is spring powered.

No home-mades as such, although you may put home made parts inside a Nerf shell etc.

Your entry must contain pictures of the blaster. Preferably ones showing it complete as well as any details that make your entry special/unique. A video of it in action would be even better.

Entry must contain an explanation/write-up of modifications completed. Ideally, the more complex the mods, the more detailed you're write-up should be.

Unlike the last comp, paint jobs will not need to be war legal. Although if you have made a primary to dominate at a war and it is painted all black, you may lose marks in the practicality section.

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Blasters will be scored accordingly -

Originality: 0/5

Cosmetics: 0/5 (if you chose not to paint your blaster - which is fine - you will be marked on the overall neatness of the modification I.e. Nice clean cuts in the shell etc)

Practicality: 0/5 (Not just in a war use sense either. If your mods have been performed with pure show off factor in mind than they will be marked with that purpose in mind. Or if your mod is for a secondary weapon, is it easy to carry/access in a hurry and is it useful in an emergency situation.)

Difficulty: 0/5 (meaning, 5 = I can't believe you even attempted such a crazy mod, 0 = too easy to be considered an actual mod)

Range: 0/5 (pertaining to standard modded ranges from particular blaster)

_________________________

Any member/admin/donator/merchant/organiser may enter, but must reside in Australia to receive prizes.

Judging Panel - TBA

You may enter only 1 blaster.

Deadline is the 11th of December, 2011. Judging will commence after this.

Go nuts

There's a fair bit of work to be done on the turret, so I started on it first.
cut the pushnut fastener pictured below, so the rotation mech can be accessed. I just used a pair of diagonal cutters:



Grease up the black rod of the gear wheel, and slip the mech spring over the top of it. Fill the mech spring with hot glue to beef it up, then cut each end flat with a hobby knife.



This should hopefully be all you'll need to do to allow the mech gear to handle the added weight of the extra barrel's. If you experience issues, it may help to glue the clutch and the gear wheel together. Re-assemble the rotation mech, and replace the pushnut fastener. Once you've ascertained the correct positioning of the fastener on the connecting rod through rotation testing, it would be advisable to glue the fastener in place.

Now, get your Dremel with a cutting bit, and cut the majority of the front of the turret housing on the blaster, so that the longer barrels aren't obstructed. Leave a small ring around the edge, to give the turret something to press up against.

I only used a precision screw driver to remove the dart posts, and the AR's fall out on their own. The main transparent yellow turret can take a bit of leverage to get it to separate from the bottom.

The ID of the barrels narrows in the middle, and is wider at the ends. I used a pedestal drill with a spade bit to bore out the holes, so the PETG would fit nicely.
Wrap e-tape around one end of the petg barrel, and then slide it as far as possible through the base of the turret. You should have a slight gap where the petg is inside the profile:

Wrap e-tape around the PETG, as close to the top of turret as possible:
Apply pvc cement/plumber's goop/epoxy adhesive to the bottom of the PETG barrel, and pull it through the top of the turret. Stick the turret on to the black bottom plate, to locate the correct depth.

12 barrels:



Before re-assembling the turret, we'll need to modify the base plate to allow the turret to be rear-loading. Grab a drill or a dremel, and hone out the holes to the first ring. Stock hole on the left, rear-loading holes on the right:



Once you've completed these tasks, apply adhesive in circles around the barrel holes on the bottom turret plate, and sit the barrel on top.

One one side, I left the 3 rear-loading holes, and on the other side, I dremelled out a bigger area around the holes. I didn't have any alignment issues, I just liked the look of the slot. Clean up all the edges with a sanding attachment:



I just wound a stock Longshot spring on to the plunger rod.
For a better plunger seal, I added some foam strips from a mangled dart, and used e-tape to secure it in place, and to increase the plunger OD. I also added a small piece of foam to the top of the plunger head, for some buffering. I also hot glued the underneath of the plunger head, as I could feel air escaping back down through there as well:



Lube up the plunger head with your preferred lubricant. Next we need to fix the plunger to turret seal. I custom made an o-ring to fit on the front of the tube. There's a tiny lip which it fits in to perfectly. Then I cut a washer out of insertion foam, and super-glued it in place. You made need to trim the o-ring and foam washer down, so they don't foul the rotation of the turret:




And here's the finished product:




I never tested the blaster stock, so ranges are unknown at this stage. I had only intended for this to be a mid-range blaster, but results were better than expected.

Flat: 112 feet (from shoulder-height, less than 5 degree elevation)

Range tests were conducted using blue foam with cut-down heavy sili's. I still can't get over how extremely accurate this blaster is, and projectile speed is not too shabby either.


Cheers,

Entering a springer, cuz I can. I know I can't get prizes for it, but seeing as I had fun being in the last competition I figured I'd do it again anyway. I predict that there will be a hell of a lot of Primary Powerhouses to come in this contest, so I went with the secondary sister-gun to my Scynavoid Plasma Autocannon from the last contest instead.

These two guns combined make up my "Scynavoid Set" for looser-rule wars. It is a mid-accuracy, mid-range, high-capacity, high-ROF, low mobility combination intended for spans of stealthy sneaking punctuated by prolonged bursts of crowd control by the Cannon, followed by a recovery period using the Dodeca which also specializes in crowd control... which suits my play style since usually I stay out of trouble and then just get impatient and start shooting the hell out of things. The Dodeca is my insurance policy against certain defeat at that point.

Enough fluff, here it is.



And here's a short demo video.

https://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v224/Aahron/?action=view&current=SPD.mp4

Name: The Scynavoid Plasma Dodeca
Base Gun: 2 Buzz Bee Tek 6’s (Third Release Version)
Type: Manta-Style Pistol
Position: Secondary Weapon/ Crowd control
Suggested Ammunition: BuzzBee 2nd Generation Darts (No holes in the tip),
Modifications:
- 2 Buzz Bee Tek 6’s attached with nothin’ but fire and epoxy, i.e. I melted them together and reinforced it.
- Both original springs have been compressed in their released state to increase pull-force on the plunger during release. Seemed to kick the range up a little, though cocking is slightly harder now on both guns.
- Dead space was identified and filled in with hot glue and epoxy… not sure that actually did anything, but, ah, well, made me feel like I was doing something.
- One coat of lacquer was applied to the interior of the barrels to tighten the hold slightly and prevent misfires.
- AR’s removed in the old-fashioned “Whack a screwdriver with a hammer” method.
- Cosmetic mods including covering up melt lines and painting with both spray and brushwork.

Comparison Specifications:
Original Range: 20-25 Feet Flat
Modified Range: 40-43 Feet Flat

Original Capacity: 6
Modified Capacity: 12

Original Misfire Rate: Rarely.
Modified Misfire Rate: Hasn’t happened yet.

Other Notes:
- The Dodeca can be fired one-at-a-time or both-at-one; the triggers aren’t linked, though they can easily be pulled at once thanks to the position of the hand.
- Curvature of the gun connection nestles the Dodeca into your palm nice and ergonomic-like.
- If fired horizontally both at once, at 20 feet, the darts converge to hit a single target, or otherwise spread out in a “V” shape for the rest of the 40-43 feet. This makes it a good choice for crowd cleanup, given its shotgun-like spread. Of course, one at a time, it can be fired for accuracy as well.

.

This is what I was trying to achieve in this mod

Quite simple mods to it, but I guess I will tell you anyway

Mods:
AR removal
Bolt-sled reinforcement
O-ring upgrade
Re Lubricated
Front gun integration(sadly doesn't work)
Re-barrelled
Halo Battle rifle Paint job
Stock block
Spring upgrade

Thanks,

i re-did my LS, because the stock broke off after I dropped it..


The paint on the stock is cleaner now.


Mods Done

- AR Removal
- Spring Addition
- All locks removed
- Front Gun Integration
- Longstrike Stock Replacement
- Paint Job
- Tac Rail relocation
- Epoxy Putty to make the Longstrike stock blend in more
- 2 Aluminium plates to reinforce the Longstrike Stock
- Reinforced boltsled
- New o-ring
- Lubed with fix a tap

Cheers
- Holdentem

My Longshot, this is easily the most effective blaster in my arsenal for general Sydney wars; many of the regular Sydney guys will agree. In my opinion, it's an excellent compensation between range and RoF, allowing me to effectively cover an area with sustained fire as well as pick off targets.

Modifications:
-AR removal
-seal improvement
-13kg spring addition
-Brass breech ('nuff said)
-Internal pump action (as per this guide this guide, can be primed from both shotgun grip and the bolt handles)
-15cm barrel extension
-RDS addition in accompaniment with a recon front sight.
-Stock and Boltsled reinforcements

Range: 40-45m
Effective accurate range: 25-30m



Yeah for nameplates!



This is really its second incarnation as the original shell and plunger broke after a severe lack of maintenance and glue. This LS has actually received a total of three paintjobs.

I'll enter my Stampede Equinox, Although the photos are of it unfinished, It's not that much different really, a few extra pipes and what not.
Edit: forgot to add abit of a run down on mods.
As you can see, this gun was some what of a labour of love. I would say this gun took me the best part of 3 months to build, maybe more. All the brass work is hand made, pipes have been bent free hand as well as the chamber holders hand soilered. Paint is a copper bronze over silver with scuffed and blacked marks to show use. Dyed filtered water fills the cooling chambers, with all the screws being hand tapped into the acrylic. I did spend alot of time on the power valve setup, making a fading circuit to power the LEDs in the base of the vac tubes. The housing is made from acrylic cut to size and bonded. Internal mods are a/r removed, spring upgrade and LiPo battery. It doesn't see to much action as it was more of a show piece rather than a war gun.









small fly by here.


Fading LEDs

I'll enter my Nitesniper. Though I do use it for private property wars, it's not built for public wars. Most of the time I use it without the scope, but I just wanted to see what I could do with a Nitefinder to give it a more rifle-like feel. The barrel is meant to handicap it because it is pretty damn powerful, but also is meant for use with stock streamline darts to stop them from getting that waggle thing and sending them any random direction. The inner barrel is accessed by sliding the port door forward. paint has heavy clear coat layer so I can use it without worrying about scratching it up. Internal mods are; drilled out restrictor, added a Buzz Bee Double Shot spring, improved plunger head seal.

This particular blaster has been through multiple phases, origionaly an RSCB'ed blaster before becoming a quadshot then an Octoshot and now a mini doomsayer. The Triple shot is probably my favourite blaster (that's available here) for it's ease of use and great ranges.

Fist up here are some pictures of the internals. It's pretty self explanatory.









The small spring in this next photo compresses when the turret is in place. It doesn't actually push the turret up but rather blocks the turret from sagging.









As far as ranges go this blaster is suited to rushing. The same blaster with 1' long UPVC barrels got 110ft while the inline clipped version gets onwards on 85ft.
It's a large decrease in range but a huge increase in ROF.



Now onto the turret. It's 24cm of 20mm UPVC and 9" of 16mm UPVC. To stop darts falling out I have 1cm of reamed out 16mm UPVC in the end of each clip.



The barrels are removable too. I can slide them down to function as single barrels or reduce ammo capacity to only two darts.





Both barrel spacers I made nearly a year ago now. I just found them lying around.

Warhammer 40k Bold pistol build from a Nerf Recon.

Stage one and two orange mod works kits.
Hidden rear cocking lever.
Large custom shell based on the Warhammer 40k games. (Games workshop)

10 step painting process

2 coats undercoat
2 coats silver
mask off
use peel medium
2 coats black
clean/peel paint
mask
use peel medium
2 coats cherry red
Clean/peel paint
Weather
2 coats satin clear

Custom purity seal: 7 coats of paint, 40k quotes in latin and custom artwork on weathered parchment.

Build log here: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/34672-40k-Nerf-Recon-Bolt-pistol-build

Video coming soon.

Well, since we need more entries - I figured I enter my own blaster. Nothing fantastic, but very, very war practical. I present to you - my UNIVERSAL TRIPLE SHOT. Why do I call it universal? Because the blaster can be used in different 'gaming styles'.

Let's go over what I've did. I've dremeled out a small length of 20mm conduit pipe so it could fit snugly over the orange end of the plunger tube. This way I can apply my RSCB, or a coupler. Alot of people probably are thinking. "Hey, why didn't you just coupler the thing instead?". I didn't do this because that way gluing on my 20mm pipe would gaurantee a 'straight' barrel, rather than trying to position it.



This is the spring I use. Alpha Trooper Spring top. 14KG Prototype OzNerfNerd's Longshot Spring bottom.



First of all, I can use this as my 'RUSH' weapon. It holds 5 streamline rounds / sili tips. It shoots about 35metres slightly angled with heavy tips, 40metres slightly angled with my custom made stingers. I can fire the 5 rounds off within almost 3-5seconds. So it's a pretty powerful rush weapon, high ROF, long Range, but unfortunately low ammo capacity. It doesn't matter though, I can usually get enough people down, before I have to reload.



I dremelled a "spacer" into my TS Shell so that my RSCB could sit in it. This prevents it from whobbling and gives it extra structural support. This is because I've seen when TS plunger tubes break off at the front. This helps it stabilise.





I've added holes at the end of the barrel as from my experience, I believe this improves the accuracy of the darts. I'm too lazy to go into the 'idea' behind it with real firearms, but it seems to work great. It uses a ball valve lid since I found it more convenient than having a cap. The RSCB fittings are 20mm CONDUIT fittings, so that's why it can fit over the 20mm pipe snugly.



I also have my coupler version of this for singled / breeched. I call it my 'SNIPESHOT' game style. I get 40metres range with heavies, 45m with my custom made stingers. Since there's less dead space, that means more power, which also means more velocity.



Speedloader barrel.



Just a few tweaks of other mods here and there to suit my blaster style. The plunger head is just got e-tape, but I've got a 100% seal with very minimal friction to get those type of ranges. =).

Mad props to Littlebro05 for getting in just before me, now my modifications wont be nearly as impressive

Well this is my TS that i have been working on for the past 3 days or so..









modifications include

1. Turret replaced with 6 shot RSCB clip and 15cm PETG barrel
2. Shell modified same as littlebro05 where the PVC t-joint is to keep the gun streamline
3. stock spring and nf spring combo (will be replaced with a 13kg spring next week)
4. catch reinforced and pump slot dremeled out for longer draw
5. LSFG handle added to stock pump grip for front grip
6. piece of marine foam placed in empty turret hole (purely cosmetic)
7. coupler added in front of the PVC t-joint so i can remove the barrel for loading and to make the gun more compact for storage. also added an end cap on a tether to back for loading too.
8. all PVC edges are sanded down in an attempt to make the gun look cleaner and more sleek

Its now super comfortable and much easier for me to prime. Ranges are around 30m... I'm hoping the new spring will boost that by a fair bit.

-note: i have only done minor reinforcements in the shell, but i haven't noticed any stress points yet. I will be doing a full makeitgo reinforcement job when i get the new spring

I thought I was the only one entering a quadshot but here is mine anyway.



Ignore the missing trigger, I'm half way through painting it.

Mods done;
Quaded with 4 25cm 16mm conduit barrels with 5cm 20mm stubs of conduit
Painted (Kinda rushed it, If finished before judging, I'll upload it)
E-tape plunger head (I failed 4 plugs)
Stock + recon + LS spring combo
Stock removed
Rear loading
Orange Conduit silencer for each barrel (Not shown)



Gets just over 27 so meters

I really was hoping to have a little more done on this, but life has a funny way of making you as busy as possible, when you really don't want it... It all works, it just needs a few little things changed/added on for me to be happy with it, so I figured I would enter it anyway.





As this is a springer comp, I won't be saying too much about the air powered side of things, and focus mainly on the primary firing mechanism, being the Triple Shot... As you may be able to tell I have a Triple Shot with integrated BBUMB for the stock, and an integrated Hornet at the front.

The BBUMB barrel is mounted on the right hand side of the gun, and fed by a 5 dart hopper, with a custom made wye that works flawlessly with full length stingers, and sili-tips. It is fired using an electric trigger mounted just below the primary trigger on the TS, I am using a lock actuator mounted on the back of the blaster to pull the firing pin.

The Hornet is pretty much stock except for some custom tubing, a relocated blast button, and it will only blast fire now, the trigger is found in the form of a thumb trigger mounted just in front of the rest position for the TS pump slide.

Both the BBUMB and Hornet are fed from the BBUMB pump, and both have 1 way valves installed so you can fire one, without having it take air from the other, their air chambers are isolated from each other.



Tank expansion



BBUMB trigger where it comes through the shell of the TS



2 9V batteries mounted in the front



Now on to the Triple shot: pretty much your average RSCB'd TS with a few little tweeks and add-ons, mods include:

5 dart RSCB (duh) but I used some clear acrylic with a slightly smaller ID than PVC to hold my darts, added a 1/2" ball valve, and stuck a 5 dart length of PVC in the end of that with a cut-out at the back, to easily insert darts on the fly... point the blaster down, open the valve and your next 5 darts drop right in, ready to go!

Custom plunger head and tube, Holman 40mm PVC tube with a custom nylon plunger head that I turned up on the lathe, 100% seal!

The plunger rod has had all the little ratchet bits filled, and I have re-located the catch spring (pretty standard stuff)

Stock spring + OMW Raider spring

The barrel is 30cm of stainless steel braided teflon (PTFE) hose nested inside clear acrylic.

I have also mounted 10 small clips down the left hand side of the blaster to hold extra ammo

Mounted the scope on top of the ball valve.


Here's a few pics of the bits and pieces:

Plunger head:


Dart clips + Hornet blast button:


Homemade Wye:


Size comparison:


Action Shot:



I seriously lost count of the amount of time I spent on this blaster, but between sourcing parts, cutting away mm of plastic at a time to make things fit, and everything else involved, I would have spent upwards of 50 hours... Probably more...

This blaster has so far been used at 2 wars and survived... I had a few issues the first time, but it was still in development stages, it survived both with no problems, it is solid, straight, and the integrations work in perfect harmony with each other...

Pros:
3 blasters in one, long range, mid range with high ROF, and a "panic button" awesome!
Solid build
Accurate
TS hits about 45-50mt (angled, sorry, had to edit to clarify)
Shell is made in 2 separate pieces, nothing internally is glued in apart from the wiring, leaving the blaster fully serviceable

Cons:
A bit of a pig to put back together when you're working on the internals... Lots of different screws on both sides of the blaster, and lots to get lined up
A touch on the heavy side, but not too bad
LONG... I don't have any trouble using it, but I think anyone shorter than me would have a bit of a hassle, not that I'm all that tall (175cm)

As I mentioned at the top of my post I kinda ran out of time to get everything just how I wanted it, so I figure I'll mention what I have left to do:

Replace the feed hose to the hornet that runs down the side of the gun with more streamlined custom bent steel bundy tube
Small tactical light mounted in the front
Holes in the shell patched and a few other cosmetic bits just to smooth it all out
Paint job!

Hey, just squeezing this in. lol.



This is my current primary in wars.

Mods done:
Shell reinforcement with hot glue and FBR.
Rear loading turret.
PETG barrels nested in 20mm UPVC Conduit for support.
Hep20 Leap used as barrel spacers.
100% seal with Boston Bathplug.
SSSpring + LS spring combo.
Reinforced catch.

Easily gets 95 feet flat. This blaster has gone through 3 different barrels... lol.

Nerf Stampede

Mods done
12 volt SLA battery
AR removal
Padded with a Air Zone dart foam
9kg and Stock Spring Combination
Lubed with Fix A Tap

Ranges
75 feet flat with Heavy Silicon Tipped Darts
85-90 feet Angled 35 degree's with Heavy Silicon Tipped Darts
85 feet flat with Light Silicon Tipped Darts
95 feet Angled about 40 degree's with Light Silicon Tipped Darts

Cheers Luke

Thanks for all the awesome entries everyone. Submissions are now closed. The winners will be announced in the coming week.

Any update on the judging Oxy?

I realise you're a busy man... haha

Cheers,

Sorry for being MIA for so long everyone. The silly season was very much that for me. I should be ready to rock in the next few days.

Oh god the suspense is killing me!

Heres my springer:





Ranges are around 30 metres

P.S. I do not want a prize

sniperdude49 wrote:Heres my springer:





Ranges are around 30 metres

P.S. I do not want a prize

Do you know that this comp is over and you're entry won't be counted?

Do you know that this comp is over and you're entry won't be counted?[/quote]

Oh then why is it still here?